Greece II: In the Pool of the Gods

Banieres of Nafplio

Greece II: In the Pool of the Gods

Three powerful strokes to the edge of the pool, one more inhale, and then the turn. How wonderful it is to breathe in the sea air; to feel the saltwater carrying you; to see the sand, the stones and the seaweed at the sea bottom; to feel like a fish among fish - and all for exactly 20 lanes. That’s already a nice morning workout: 20 x 50 meters. And where could it be nicer than in this pool in the sea?

Building a swimming pool in the endless ocean might seem like planting a tree in a dense forest or to bring owls to Athens. That saying illustrates the absolute superfluity, and of course it comes from the ancient Greeks, more specifically from the ancient comedy writer Aristophanes. Fortunately, the modern Greeks have this further. In Nafplio, the port city on the Peloponnese, they have shown how meaningful the seemingly superfluous can be.

Banieres, or “the bathtubs,” is what the residents of Nafplio have dubbed this pool, built in the 1950s by the town’s nautical club on the steep coast below a castle ruin, presumably at the behest of the gods. Naturally, the pool, not far from ancient Olympia, is the exact Olympic length. It is lined with solid concrete at the front and back, with nine chalk-white starting blocks on each side. A row of massive stones, with an opening large enough for a steady flow of water, serves as a barrier to the sea. “We hold competitions here,” says Spiros Prountzos, “and we also play water polo.”

Spiros Prountzos is 75 years old, “maybe a year older,” he adds with a wink. A handsome, well-tanned belly bulges above his orange swim trunks. His hair is white, his smile is very friendly. He’s just gotten out of the water, floated a bit, and chased away the heat. Dripping wet, he stands at the edge of the pool, content with himself and the world that condenses into a cosmos of its own around this pool.

If you google the sights of Nafplio, you’ll hardly find the Banieres. The city is known for its mix of Venetian architecture, Ottoman bathhouses, and Orthodox churches. For three mighty fortresses, for charming alleys where bougainvillea thrives. A few well-formed coves outside the center are recommended for swimming. Thus, the Banieres remain the refuge of the residents. People meet here, everyone knows

each other, and if a stranger passes, they too are greeted with a hearty “Yassas.”

By the end of the school day, at the very latest, children take over the water. The young and beautiful then settle down at the bar by the pool for a sundowner. In the morning, however, the pool belongs to the elderly who have always been here and to those who want to swim undisturbed—with a pleasure that perhaps only those who are members of the swimmer species can understand.

Because swimming is much more than joint-friendly endurance training. Swimming shapes the body and soul. It is pure joy and pure meditation. It is, yes, a way of life, and on top of that, it is recommended by Weight Watchers. Of course, you can also swim in an indoor pool; there, too, the water lets your thoughts flow. But due to viruses, germs, and fungi, it usually smells strongly of chlorine. The same applies to outdoor pools. So, if you are truly seeking freedom as a swimmer, you will only find it in the sea. There, however, you are exposed to wind, weather, and currents, and

sometimes even the great white shark. Therefor ideal span for swimming freedom is a 50-meter pool filled with seawater; in short: the Banieres of Nafplio. Nowhere is water closer to heaven.

Spiros Prountzos has known the Banieres since childhood. “We used to swim here all year round,” he says, “but now I only do it from May to November.” He came here after school, or later in his life after working as a lawyer. He was here with his wife and their two daughters. The children, he says, now live in Athens; his wife died ten years ago.

But he doesn’t seem lonely. He feels at home at the Banieres, having a chat here and being greeted with a hug there. When the sun finally reaches its zenith in the sky, it’s time for him to go home. “Yassas,” he says, waving goodbye. “Have a good time and a good life.”

Nafplio, June 2025

Translation: Lisa Kremer